Revisiting Vallarta

YES THERE ARE HOTELS AND CONDOS APLENTY, BUT FOR THE DISCERNING VISITOR, SEEKING OUT THE INTERNATIONAL ARTISTS AND CHEFS WHO HAVE GATHERED HERE HAS ITS OWN REWARDS.

JANIE ROBINSON

THE SMILING SUN SHINES DOWN on the gold-tipped tiles of The Guadalupe Church; the Cathedral’s iconic crown regally stands guard over a still-authentic Old Town Puerto Vallarta, harboring tradition in its pretty plazas and cobblestone streets.

The tropical tranquility of the Sierra Madre mountains stand sentinel to the south, dipping down to touch sandy toes into the sun-kissed sea, its rivers rushing to meet the Pacific Ocean and creating cozy coves – some of the most beautiful beaches are accessible only by boat along this magical western coastline known as the Mexican Riviera.

My bird’s-eye Vallarta view is from a bougainvillea draped wrought iron balcony in Gringo Gulch, the lofty neighborhood of the 1960s not-so-secret, scandalous hillside hideaway of Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor (both married at the time, but not to each other). In fact, the faded famous pink bridge that once linked the lovers is just around the corner.

Some 50 years ago, Hollywood headlines concerning the glamorous couple’s torrid Mexican love affair helped put this once sleepy fishing village on the tourist map. Burton had come to Puerto Vallarta to film The Night of the Iguana in 1963, and his new love, Liz, followed with legions of paparazzi in tow – photographing not only the famous couple, but their undiscovered tropical paradise too. From that moment on, Puerto Vallarta ceased to be “a secret hideaway waiting to be discovered” and became one of Mexico’s top Pacific resorts.

‘Vallarta’ (as the locals call it) embraces beautiful Banderas Bay – a sandy stretch of more than 40 kilometers curving north from Marina Vallarta near the airport, past high-rise resorts in the Hotel Zone and the colonial heart of Puerto Vallarta’s old town to the bay’s scenic southern arc at Mismaloya – the tropical setting for director John Huston’s The Night of the Iguana.

 SOME 50 YEARS AGO LIZ AND DICK PUT THE SLEEPY FISHING VILLAGE OF PUERTO VALLARTA ON THE MAP. THE FACT THAT IT WAS SURROUNDED BY MOUNTAINS OVERLOOKING A 40KM STRETCH OF PACIFIC BEACH DIDN’T HURT. IT WAS AN IDEAL SETTING FOR AN INTERNATIONAL RESORT DESTINATION AND THAT IS WHAT PUERTO VALLARTA HAS BECOME.

 It’s an easy walk along the beach from my Sheraton Buganvilias Resort in the Hotel Zone to the quaint welcome of old town (Viejo Vallarta). You can flag down one of the local buses for a cheap and fun trip to town for just seven pesos (about 60 cents Canadian).

Sadly, I can’t saunter along the town’s famous seaside Malecon boardwalk, it is closed for several months while under construction. But I can soak up the colonial ambience, stroll the cobblestone streets, sample the delicious local dishes and explore the famous landmarks, outdoor markets and unique shops in the heart of Viejo Vallarta.

Pick up a copy of the Historic Center ArtWalk brochure to discover the great variety and exceptional quality of local, national and international art available in Vallarta’s historic center. Artists from around the world gravitate to Puerto Vallarta’s beauty (the town is often referred to as ‘Mexico’s Art Mecca’) which is clearly reflected in their lovely works of art – painting, sculpture, ceramics, jewellery, fashion and poetry. On Wednesday evenings from October to May you can meet exhibiting artists while sipping cocktails at the 14 participating ArtWalk galleries in the Historic Center.

Like the international artists, countless chefs from around the world have come to Vallarta for a visit and decided to stay. In fact, the dining scene is so surprisingly diverse and extensive here you would have to go to a different restaurant every day for over a year to try them all.

German chef Bernhard Güth worked at some of Europe’s most famous restaurants before opening Trio restaurant in Vallarta over 10 years ago – his outstanding Mediterranean cuisine is deliciously blended with local fresh ingredients and fine herbs.

Puerto Vallarta is a great place to discover an amazing variety of Mexican dishes along with savoring succulent seafood. El Arrayan is an intimate little ‘slow food’ Mexican restaurant situated in the heart of Old Town. Authentic traditional recipes and unique dishes are served in a lovely courtyard, centered around the Arrayan fruit tree which gives this casual and friendly restaurant its name. Try their trademark sweet and sour El Arrayan margarita.

For another taste of real life in Puerto Vallarta, don’t miss the fish tacos at Marisma. The simple, side-street, orange-awning taqueria isn't a place many visitors are likely to find, but most locals certainly know about it. Marisma’s fresh fish tacos start with hand-made tortillas hot off the grill, a fillet of fried fish and some shredded lettuce along with several varieties of chili sauce and salsa, so you can add your own spice and heat. You’ll pay just 16 pesos (about $1.30) per taco and they’re so delicious you’ll want to order a couple at a time.

THE CHARMING 17TH CENTURY MOUNTAIN VILLAGE OF SAN SEBASTIAN DEL OESTE RETAINS ITS RICH COLONIAL HERITAGE WITH BUILDINGS AND STRUCTURES THAT HAVE BEEN STANDING FOR OVER 250 YEARS.

I also line up with the locals at the street stands just across from my Sheraton hotel for some Nieves de Garrafa – the home-made ice cream is five pesos (about 50 cents) a scoop and comes in unique Mexican flavors like the sweet and sour arrayan fruit, caramel-like cajeta and of course, tequila.

Foodies won’t want to miss the annual Gourmet Festival in November. In May, many of Puerto Vallarta’s best restaurants offer spectacular three-course menus discounted by up to 50 percent, with fixed prices of 189 or 299 pesos ($15 or $25 Cdn) during Restaurant Week. It’s the perfect chance to dine at gorgeous Blanca Blue, an elegant gourmet restaurant with the most breathtaking views of Banderas Bay and landmark Los Arcos islands.

Some 10 kilometers south of Puerto Vallarta along Highway 200, Mismaloya is still the best-known and most accessible beach. It is also where you can catch water taxis to the more isolated and scenic beaches further south – Playa Las Animas, Quimisto and Yelapa.

Boat tours depart daily from Puerto Vallarta for these popular southern beaches, as well as the northern shore of Banderas Bay. Most trips include a snorkeling stop, lunch, open bar, as well as onboard music and entertainment on the day-long excursions.

Watch for whales from November to March, as the majestic humpbacks continue their traditional migration to the bay to give birth. In the 17th century these waters were called Humpback Bay.

It was also back in the 1800s that Puerto Vallarta got its start in the silver business, providing the sea salt used for ore processing in the wealthy silver mines high in the Sierra Madres. San Sebastian del Oeste was one of the wealthiest of these mountain mining towns founded by Spaniards. It had nearly 30 silver mines and a population of over 30,000 people at its peak. With the Mexican Revolution of the early 1900s came the final demise of the European-run mines. But this charming 17th century mountain village remains as a living museum of roughly 600 residents, retaining its rich colonial heritage with buildings and structures that have been standing for over 250 years.

Now just a 90-minute drive from Puerto Vallarta via a newly upgraded scenic highway, a visit to charming San Sebastian del Oeste is like walking into the traditional Mexico of years gone by. UNESCO is currently considering adding this picturesque, lost-in-time mining town to its list of World Heritage sites.

Horses share the narrow cobblestone main street with kids heading home from school and a couple of passing cars. The town’s sole ‘gas station’ is a courtyard of fuel-filled jerry cans and if you see a few items like brooms and buckets leaning by a doorway, that’s probably a ‘store’ – don’t bother searching for signs.

The town’s rich Spanish heritage lives on in the whitewashed houses with their red teja roofs enveloping the pretty main plaza – a beautiful wrought iron bandstand at its center and the circa 1608 blue-domed Temple of San Sebastian, a gleaming celestial testament to the rich origins of this silver mining town. Brilliant flashes of bougainvillea bask on red sun-baked clay walls, lining stone pathways that beg you to come and explore what’s on the other side of the curved bridge. Sitting at a café, sipping some home-grown San Sebastian organic coffee works for me too. The familyrun, generations-old La Quinta coffee farm is at the town’s entrance; you can tour the plantation and buy packs of their famous coffee and mocha blends before heading home.

Winding our way back down the mountainside, dramatic views of the valleys below and tantalizing glimpses of the gleaming Pacific Ocean beckon us back to Puerto Vallarta. Just in time to relax on the sand and catch another spectacular sunset – yet one more unforgettable Vallarta view.