Cruising the Danube
By Vanessa Lee
*originally published in Cruise and Travel Lifestyles Spring/Summer 2011
Not only is river cruising an absolutely delightful way to enjoy pastoral views amidst the charming scenery of Europe but my AMAWaterways cruise was an opportunity to journey on the Danube which for me was a first. A great way, I thought, to see some favorite countries from a different perspective.
And in choosing the Danube I was able to see Hungary and its capital, Budapest which is a remarkably fascinating city with its blend of ancient and modern and the subtle influences of the Orient and Turkey. The sense of it quite captivated me.
The history of the Magyars is intriguing and the genesis of the Hungarian people is said to be out of the Ural Mountains in Asia. Their language is difficult and its roots to me were not recognizable although apparently the Finns have a similar language in some respects.
Budapest is a gorgeous and compelling place and I adored it. Not only is its physical location outstanding with the Danube running through the heart of the two original cities – Buda and Pest, but it has a plethora of interesting museums and galleries, an old castle, numerous cathedrals, a citadel, wide boulevards and cobblestone streets. It reminded me of Paris and is called the Paris of the East for due cause. It also has a distinctive western sensibility but without the soaring high rise towers that spoil so many old European cities. Buda is more hilly and old world-like and Pest is more the modern commercial center, but both are worthy of extensive walks and exploration.
Mosaic tiled roofs, baroque, gothic, renaissance and art nouveau architecture all live juxtaposed to each other in a friendly and companionable way. The people are equally as delightful as their city and I found them to be gracious and friendly hosts, proud of their fight against communism and also of their heritage. The food and restaurants, jazz bars and pedestrian areas all combine for an enjoyable stay. This is a must see city and they would appreciate your company and are deserving of same. We only had two days there and it was not enough but the richness of this remarkable place will live on and has left an indelible print.
But of course we were not on this trip just to see Budapest but to cruise upriver from there into Slovakia, Austria and Germany on an AMAWaterways river cruise for seven days on one of their newer ships, the ms AmaCello which was launched in 2008. AMAWaterways currently has seven river ships built specifically to their design since 2006. They also have a ship in the Mekong Delta with ms La Marguerite. The ms AmaLotus will be added in Asia later this year and also the ms AmaKatarina will sail the Russian waterways in the future.
This was my first cruise on AMAWaterways and I would heartily recommend it and would return. The vessel and in particular, the crew and on board hotel staff were extremely impressive.
I find that it is not only your fellow guests, who can turn a trip into a great vacation, but the ship’s staff, especially on a vessel with only 148 people, can make a huge difference. On the ms AmaCello I truly felt that there was a wonderful rapport with the guests and that the onboard personnel were a happy group. Many of the staff and crew, including the Captain, were Hungarians. Add to that all the special touches which were so well received and you have a winning combination.
Our accommodation was one of the four suites onboard and it was delightful. Well decorated in warm rich colors with ample room for two, great closet and storage space and a sitting area with a small couch, extra chair and a coffee table. The bathroom was fabulous – again spacious and well lit, with a separate tub and shower, one sink and lots of storage.
All accommodations on board are air conditioned, and there is a TV/internet combination (Infotainment as it is called) with a keyboard for the computer; our suite had a mini bar fridge, a safe, robes and slippers. There was also a French balcony and each morning I would sit sipping a cup of coffee with the door to the balcony pulled back and drink in the view of the gentle meandering river and the bucolic scenery we were seemingly just slipping by. Depending where we were on the river, there were times when it seemed very sleepy and narrow and one could almost reach out and touch the trees on the banks; at other times it widened and seemed more majestic.
We boarded in the early afternoon and sailed around 9:30 at night, after a welcome dinner. The impressive monuments of Budapest gave us an outstanding send off, as if standing guard as we slowly made our way up the river and out into the inky night. The illuminations of the castle, the parliament buildings and other beautiful edifices were outstanding.
As we began our journey there was a first inkling of the special services we would receive as the staff offered a kir royale to everyone on the upper sun deck. The coming together of about 190 souls, guests and crew alike, who will spend their next seven days together in harmonious friendship, was a delight.
Our route took us first into Slovakia and Bratislava. In each place we visited there was a complimentary guided walking tour offered and guests could choose the kind of walk best suited to their needs. So AMAWaterways divides these into Active, Regular and Gentle walks. Also ear pieces are given out onboard and these are used during each tour. A Quiet Vox is provided and the ear pieces plug in so you can hear the guide no matter how far away you may be standing. You keep this for the week and it works well.
From Bratislava we meandered our way to Vienna – always one of my most favorite cities – then to Durnstein which was absolutely charming, on to Melk home of the famous Abbey, then on to Linz and Passau. From Linz many of the guests took a full day tour to Salzburg which is a very popular add on. I opted to stay onboard and spend time in Passau which I had not been to before and which was very enjoyable. From there we sailed onward to Regensburg, Germany and then had a very exciting day crossing the European continental divide via the Main/Danube Canal on our way to our port of disembarkation – Nuremberg.
The itinerary was extremely well planned and most of the towns we visited were interesting and enjoyable. A feature we liked was a bike ride in almost every spot once we cruised into Germany. The vessel provides bicycles for guests’ use along with helmets and in each spot we rode along the riverbanks or into town, through some vineyards enjoying sleepy little towns that seemed to be dozing in the somnolence of the mid summer heat.
The ms AmaCello is very inviting and is beauti¬fully decorated. As usual on a river vessel the Main Lounge including the Bar was the focal gathering spot for pre-dinner drinks, post-dinner entertainment and to listen to our very amiable cruise director, Ornulf tell us about each town and city and all the onboard events as well. AMAWaterways is very thoughtful about the small touches and there were frequent parties and socials including an ice cream tasting, strawberry champagne, a Kaiserspritzer and onion tart offered to returning guests in Durnstein, iced coffee and Viennese pastries on deck and numerous other treats abounding.
The restaurant, as is also typical on a river vessel, offers single open seating dining and most guests will dine at much the same time each evening following cocktails and the talk about the next port. The atmosphere is convivial and after just a few days most people will know at least half of the other guests. Service in the dining room was excellent, polished and very friendly. The Hungarian Maitre d’ Gabor ran a fine brigade of service staff and the chef and his team produced good and tasty food. Nothing was ever too much trouble.
Breakfast and lunch are buffet with some served choices and the menus were very good and offered excellent and varied choices. Complimentary wine is also offered at dinner. Other amenities include a large sunning/viewing deck, access to the wheelhouse, a small beauty salon with massage facilities, a shop, elevator and small aft lounge for relaxation. All in all, it was a marvellous trip made even better by the attentive ministrations of a great ship’s crew.
